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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQS);faqs.240



On the other hand, as a demonstration of good faith and to be sure you
understand the work involved, many breeders who sell you such a puppy
will want you to have a go at getting a CH.  That way you not only get
a bit of notice in the area, but you also see what others of that
breed look like and how your dogs compare to them in general.  It also
exposes you to some of the worst ways to complete a dog's title as
well as some very nice dogs that just haven't been shown much.  This
way when you do go to breed, you'll have a better idea of what you are
breeding for.

(e) What are the responsibilities involved in breeding?

It takes quite a lot of time to learn what dog makes a good match for
which bitch.  Two dogs that are both outstanding individuals may not
produce any outstanding puppies.  The individual dogs and their
pedigrees need to be carefully studied to verify that weaknesses on
one side will be complemented by strengths on the other side in the
same area.

You should consider that thousands, if not hundreds of thousands of
puppies in each of the more-well-known breeds are registered with the
AKC each year.  Average or run-of-the-mill litters are simply not
needed; more than enough exist.  Breeding only the truly outstanding
dogs within these popular breeds would still produce more than enough
puppies to meet demand.

Breeders usually breed for a specific purpose and with each litter
they are looking for a puppy with a particular set of characteristics.
Some good litters are very uniform, but more often than not, there is
only one or two such puppies.  As a result, they end up with quite a
number of puppies that need to be placed in "pet" homes.

Competent breeders either work or show their dogs.  If they are not
tested in any way, there is no external confirmation of the dog's
worth.  Even if the breed in question is simply a companion-type dog
(e.g., not a sporting, hunting, or other working breed), there should
be temperament testing and showing to make sure the dogs are in line
with the breed standards.

While many breeds of dogs can make good companion dogs, they often do
so not because they were directly bred as "companions" but because the
traits they have been selected for are also compatible with what is
needed for a companion dog.  For example, steadiness and trainability
are needed for most of the working breeds, these are also desireable
traints for companion dogs. In other words, they make good companion
dogs because of the years of breeding for working character and sound
structure.  Keep in mind these characteristics can be greatly
diminished in just a few generations, so *each* generation needs to be
evaluated to make sure that those qualities that come together to
produce a good specimen of the breed are still present.


J.  Travel and International Travel.

1.  Car

Most dogs love travelling in the car.  Some are fearful, others are
prone to carsickness.  Any dog travelling in a car should be
restrained in some manner, both for its safety and yours.  Dogs can
travel in carriers, probably the best option.  There are available
barriers which can keep your dog in the back seat (this works
especially well with station wagon type of cars).  There are
restraining leashes available.  Riding in the back of a truck is just
asking for trouble, as the dog will almost always be killed if it is
thrown from the truck in even a minor accident.  There are also
restraining leashes for dogs in open pick-up truck beds.  Some states
have laws against dogs riding in the back of a pick-up.

1.1. Car sickness, fear

Try just sitting in the back seat and just talking and playing with
your dog, assure it over a few of these sitting-in sessions that there
is nothing to be afraid of.  Then do a couple of slow trips, just
around the block, no more. Then to the local park or beach, so your
dog starts to get the idea that car trips lead to "fun" places too.
Finally, try slowing down some more for those corners since side to
side movements in a car are the most common cause of motion sickness.
Opening a window or turning on the car fan may help some dogs.

Do *not* sympathize with the dog or try to soothe it.  While
car-sickness isn't quite the same as being afraid of riding in the
car, it could conceivably be brought on by such a fear.  If that is
the case, doing *anything* that the pup can possibly interpret as
praise can be counterproductive.  It will teach it that this fear is
the desired behavior.  If the car sickness if brought on by such fear
and it is, inadavertantly, taught that the fear is desired behavior,
the car sickness will continue.

2.  Plane

The May/June, 1990 issue of Golden Retriever News (published by the
Golden Retriever Club of America) had an article on airline
transportation of dogs.  Many of the comments should be common sense
-- such as having the proper crates and bedding, choosing non-stop
flights where possible, allowing plenty of check-in time, etc.  The
article goes on to say that the ratings are based on serious problems
reported between July 1988 and July 1989, and that air travel is
generally safe for animals, with a mortality rate of less than one
tenth of one percent.

One pet is allowed in each cabin.  Thus, if there is one First Class,
one Business class and one Tourist class cabin, three pets are
allowed.  This can be modified if the pets are house mates - two
people who are traveling with their two pets, then the pets can be in
the same cabin.  A cabin is a section that can be closed off from view
from the other sections either with a door or a curtain.

As for specific airlines: USAir has one of the best reputations in
shipping animals.  They routinely check up on the animals, and ask the
owners to call a specific number after each landing the plane makes to
contact an individual who can check on the animals.  Continental has
the worst reputation, having had several dogs die in their planes.  A
particularly horrible incident in the summer of 1991 involved five
samoyeds, three of whom died of heat prostration despite the pleas of
the passengers and owners, who could hear the dogs barking in the
cargo area.  Other airlines have varying reputations.  In general a
direct flight is safest.

There is a pamphlet from Northwest Airlines called "Priority Pet."  It
explains Northwest's methods of pet transport --- it was encouraging
to see an airline show explicit concern for this issue.  Northwest
asks owners to attach two bowls and a supply of food to the outside of
the kennel in order that the animal may be fed and watered (presumably
by Northwest personnel).  The caveats and conditions are enlightening
to read.

Other references: The _Conde' Nast Traveler_ (June 1992) has an
article on pets and planes, including information on which carriers
have been fined for violations of animal transportation laws.

3.  International Travel.

A partial list: most states require a health certificate and proof of
rabies vaccination for pets crossing state lines.  Most airlines will
require this regardless.  Hawaii and Britain have a 6 month quarantine
for all pets entering either island (the chunnel may change Britain's
policy in a few years).  Canada has a 4 month quarantine [I think?],
except from the US, where rabies vaccination documentation is
sufficient.  Scandinavian countries have a three month quarantine,
with exceptions for animals from rabies-free countries such as Britain
and Australia.

Dogs from New Zealand may freely enter Australia (but not from other
pacific islands).  Dogs from Ireland or Britain may enter after a 2
month quarantine.  All other animals must do six months of quarantine
in Hawaii or UK, a month out, and then 2 months in Australia.

4.  Shipping

You may find yourself shipping a dog, for various reasons.  Most
people simply ship them as cargo on an airline.  This works best when
the flight is a non-stop, and neither the start- or end-point is at
risk of too high or too low temperatures.  There is at least one
company that ships dogs.  This is

Pet Transfer
(world wide door to door pet moving service)
714-660-9390 (USA)
[There may be an 800 , but I do not have it.]


K.  Vicious Dogs.

It is an interesting fact about American pit bulls that up until World
War II Pit Bulls were looked upon with favor and patriotism. There is
World War I propaganda portraying the Pit Bull as manifesting American
Virtues.  In a poster with other dogs representing their country of
origin, the pit bull in a bunting collar was subscribed "Independent,
but not afraid of any of them..."  In addition, at about the same
time, Collies were considered unreliable dogs that would attack people
without provocation.  Thus, it is easy to see that hysteria about a
particular breed is just that, hysteria.

In many cases the reasons given for the "viciousness" of some breed
are racist or classist and ludicrous to those who know dogs and follow
the reports. The German Shepherd was vicious because of it's overly
inbred purity (read German Uber-mench theory). In Germany the Doberman
was vicious because it was *impure* (read tainted with non-Aryan dog
genes, whatever they are...).

What dog-knowers will tell you that human-aggressiveness and
dog-aggressiveness are totally different, and that, for example, dogs
bred to fight in fact had to be owner-safe in the most intense
situations where an owner needed to break two fighters apart.

Regarding attempts to ban certain breeds as "vicious," it should be
noted that the fault is not with the dog or the breed of the dog.
Unfortunately, certain breeds are perceived to be aggressive and
vicious.  People pick up these types of dogs and encourage them to be
aggressive and vicious.  The result is a badly-trained dog that has
been taught to fear people.  In addition, other people start breeding
these dogs with poor temperament and the cycle continues.  But it is
important to remember that the viciousness comes with poor training
and teasing of the dog and poor breeding practices.  Thus, penalties
should focus on individuals who display irresponsibility in the
handling of their dog and on those breeders who breed with poor
temperament, rather than on an entire breed.

References:

Hearn, Vicki.  _Bandit: The Dossier Of A Dangerous Dog_.


L.  Wolves and Wolf Hybrids.

First, note that there is a group in the ALT hierarchy called
alt.wolves.  There, you can read firsthand experiences of hybrid
owners, and discuss other issues involving wolves and hybrids in
general.

1.  Wolves

Wolves are very different from canines, but they do share a common
ancestry.  Wolves can be fascinating to study -- and observation of
wolves' social structure and behavior shed much insight into canine
behavior.

Resources and References:

Wolf Park is an organization whose mission is to conduct behavioral
research to obtain a better understanding of wolves in captivity and
in the wild, to disseminate scientific information and improve captive
animal management techniques, and to educate the general public to
gain a compassionate and realistic understanding of wolves and
ecology.  Wolf Park is supported through memberships and donations.
Benefits include free admission to the park for one year, Wolf Park
News and Journal of Wolf Ethology, and discounts on books from the
bookstore.  Behavior seminars directed by Dr. Erich Klinghammer are
offered.  There is an Adopt-A-Wolf program as well.  Note that they do
not deal with wolf-hybrids: many people attempt to donate their WH's
and they do not accept them.  Their position is that wolf-hybrids are
a bad idea and a detriment to wolves and the Park's mission.  They
will provide information about hybrids to those that ask.

Address: Wolf Park, Battle Ground, IN 47920.  Phone: [phone].

Mech, L. David. _The Wolf_.  University of Minnesota Press, 1970.
384 pgs Softcover.  ISBN: 0-1866-1026-6.
  Complete description of the wolf, its behavior and ecology.
  David Mech is a renowned wolf expert, and this is an extremly
  informative and well written book.

Lopez, Barry H. _Of Wolves and Men_.  Charles Scribner's Sons, 1978.
308 pgs Softcover. ISBN: 0-684-16322-5.
  Description of wolves and their relationship with humans.  Not
  really a technical discussion of wolves like the first reference.

Crisler, Lois.  _Arctic Wild_. New York, Harper. 1958.

Mowat, Farley.  _Never Cry Wolf_.  Boston, Little, Brown. 1963.

The Wolf Society of Great Britain produces the flyer "The Howler."
Prospect House
Charlton
Kilmersdon. Bath. BA3 5TN


2.  Wolf-Hybrids

**********************************************************************
FAQ author's note:  I disclaim *any* responsibility in the event you
get a wolf-hybrid.  It is my personal recommendation that you not get
one.  What follows is for informational purposes only and is presented
here only because it is a controversial topic that comes up every now
and then on this group.  I have attempted to make a fair presentation,
and have included resources for further information.
                                                  --Cindy Tittle Moore
**********************************************************************

Anyone who is interested in getting a wolf-hybrid should obtain as
much information about the animals *before* considering getting one.
WH's are not casual pets and do not behave like dogs do.  Most WH
experts recommend that you spend some time around WH's to be sure of
what you are getting into.  Wolf Country and other places offer
programs where people can help care for WH's and learn first hand
about them.  There are also seminars and organizations to help
disseminate the information a WH owner needs.  **DO NOT EVEN
*CONSIDER* GETTING A WOLF-HYBRID BEFORE GETTING THIS INFORMATION AND
EDUCATION!**

What follows below is a thumbnail sketch of the sorts of problems with
wolf-hybrids, along with resources for more complete information.

Legality: Because of various state and federal laws regarding wildlife
and endangered species, wolf-hybrids are simply illegal.  As of 1991,
they were illegal in ten states, and an additional nine required Fish
& Game permits, especially if the hybrid was at least 75% wolf.  A lot
of states don't quite know what to do with hybrids and have thus
included such terminology in defining hybrids as "wolf-like
characteristics."  Even when legal, they face much prejudice, and a WH
that runs afoul of the law (by trespassing, biting, etc) is much more
likely to be destroyed than a dog doing the same.

In addition, such a WH will generate negative publicity for wolves.
Reinforcing negative images of wolves in the public's mind and giving
ammunition to the ranching industry to produce more anti-wolf
propoganda directly hampers the wolf's reintroduction into the wild.
Unfair as it is, the general public will think "wolf" when
"wolf-hybrid" comes up, and the ranching industry has long had an
interest in completely eliminating wolves and will use this prejudice.

Behavior: Although there are exceptions, most WH's do NOT act like
domesticated dogs, Jack London's romantic stories notwithstanding.
Dogs are the result of thousands of years of genetic selection for
those attributes that are desired by man.  The wolf, on the other
hand, has been selected to be a survivor.  Most suffer from a fear, or
at least a nervousness, of being around people and are very timid
until something happens to go against their instincts. The pack
instinct is very strong. They will only obey their owner if they feel
he is the dominant dog in the pack, so obviously, he needs to know A
LOT about wolfpacks to stay ahead of the game.  Also, hybrids don't
always automatically assume that the "master" will remain the master,
resulting in testing the owner for dominance, which can take the forms
of attacking or defensive fighting.

Predicting behavior: The percentage of wolf in the hybrid's background
will not accurately predict its behavior.  Some hybrids with low
percentages are nervous and skittish, others with high percentages are
more stable and reliable.  Looking at the pup's parents may give some
indication, but then it may not.  A good deal will depend on how well
socialized the animal is, that is, how much work its owner puts into
it.  Remember, WH's are NOT a breed, there is absolutely no
consistency in their breeding.  Not only does the percentage of wolf
background vary, but the dogs used in the crosses also vary, although
they are commonly Malamutes and Huskies.  Also, since they are not
bred for any particular purpose and there are a number of backyard
breeders of WH's, this contributes to their uncertain temperament.
Because WH are so much more work than average dogs, and because the
*potential* is there for the WH to be more prone to what is deemed
anti-social behavior in domesticated dogs, the problem is amplified.

Around people: WH's, as with any large or excitable animal, should
NEVER be allowed access to small children, unless they are on a leash
and strictly watched for signs of aggression.  If a child trips and
falls, or gets knocked down by the big furry "dog", or worse yet,
teases the "dog", a mauling can easily result.  Hybrids need to be
watched around strangers because they may back bite.  Not all WH's
react this way, but a hybrid owner cannot afford to take any chances.
Again, because of negative public perception, the hybrid will likely
be destroyed as a result of such an incident, and its behavior only
reinforce the negative perception.  In addition, it will further
damage the reputation of wolves, making reintroduction that much
harder, and damage the reputation of the dogs the wolves are bred to,
usually Siberian Huskies and Alaskan Malamutes.

Training: Many respondents emphasized that WH's can be trained, but
NOT TRUSTED without their owners nearby.  Most obedience clubs will
not even allow wolf hybrids in classes.  Wolf Country, a breeder near
Anchorage, strongly recommends potential owners work around the
animals for at least a year in order to see if they can handle them
and do want one.  Apparently they socialize quite differently from
dogs, and can differ in their response to discipline.  The normal
methods used on dogs may or may not work on a hybrid.  Because of all
this, you will need WH support groups of some form nearby to help you
with potential training problems.

Housing: YOU DO NOT (repeat NOT) PUT A HYBRID ON A CHAIN IN THE BACK
YARD!  You need to build an enclosure of at least 10000 square feet to
allow it to explore.  Also it must be fenced with at least 7' high and
an overhang.  Not only that, but it wouldn't be a bad idea to put a
gate to your back yard to prevent children from wandering out there,
because if you stick something into its area, it will try to pull it
through, regardless of whether it is living or just a stick.  Some of
these animals are so strongly destructive that they can not be let in
the house, and will destroy any house you make for them.

Health: Most medicines for dogs do not work or are unapproved for use
on hybrids and as a result hybrids may have a harder time getting over
kennel cough, parvo, distemper, etc.  In Indiana, for example, it is
illegal to vaccinate a wild animal (including hybrids).

Resources:

The Wolf Hybrid Times (WHT) is packed full of information: complete
with many long series on topics such as nuitrition, containment,
medical information, current legal status and issues, research, wolves
in literature, photos and seasoned, practical advice from owners,
breeders and scientists.  Add to this commercial advertising
specifically geared to wolf and wolf hybrid owners plus regular
updates and activities from the various organizations.  Subscription
rate is $20.00 per year; please add $4.00 outside the U.S.  Published
bi-monthly.  Address is: WHT, P.O.  Box 1423, Gallup, NM 87305.

The National Wolf Hybrid Association is dedicated to responsible care
and understanding of the wolf hybrid.  Membership fees are $25.00
yearly which include a bi-monthly newsletter.  Address: Rt. 1 Box 163
Chapmansboro, TN 37035.  Phone: [phone].

----------------
This file is Copyright (c) 1992 by Cindy Tittle Moore.  It may be
freely distributed in its entirety provided that this copyright notice
is not removed.  It may not be sold for profit nor incorporated in
commercial documents without the author's written permission.

Cindy Tittle Moore
Internet: [e-mail]  UUCP: ...!ucbvax!ucivax!tittle
Bitnet  : cltittle@uci        USmail: PO BOX 4188, Irvine CA 92716
----------------
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From: [e-mail] (Cindy Tittle Moore)
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Subject: rec.pets.dogs:  New Owners, New Dogs FAQ
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Archive-name: dogs-faq/new
Version: 2.4
Last-modified: 25 September 1992

This is one (of ten) of the FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) Lists
for rec.pets.dogs.  It is posted on a monthly basis: updates,
additions, and corrections (including attributions) are always
welcome: send email to one of the addresses below.

The ten parts are all archived at pit-manager.mit.edu (18.172.1.27) in
the directory /pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq.  The files are:
introduction, new, health-care, medical-info, training, working,
AKC-titles, misc1, misc2, and references.  To obtain the files, first
try ftp to pit-manager.mit.edu and look under that directory.  If ftp
does not work from your site, then try the mail server: send email to
[e-mail] with

send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/introduction
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/new
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/health-care
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/medical-info
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/training
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/working
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/AKC-titles
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/misc1
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/misc2
send usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/references

in the body of the message (leave the subject line empty).  If you
don't want all of them, include only the lines of the ones you want.
You do have to repeat the path information for each file.

Changes and additions indicated with |'s.

II.  New Owners, New Dogs.

  Prologue.
  A.  What Kind of Dog?
  B.  What are My Responsibilities?
  C.  Where?
  D.  Veterinarians.
  E.  Puppies.
  F.  Puppy-Proofing Your Home.
  G.  Feeding Your Puppy.
  H.  Teething.
  I.  Chew Toys.
  J.  Preliminary Training.
  K.  Socialization of Puppies.
  L.  Housetraining Your Puppy.
  M.  Living with Other Pets.
  N.  People Food.




Prologue.

A quick critical information list:

  * Never hit a young puppy.
  * Praise exuberantly.
  * Be consistent with your dog, rather than harsh.
  * Don't allow biting, but only correct after 14 weeks (yelp and
    replace hand with toy before that)
  * Never correct a dog after the fact.
  * Dogs need new experiences with other people, dogs and places,
    when very young to get socialized.
  * Praise exuberantly.
  * Dogs need successes and less correction before full maturity
    so they can develop confidence.
  * Train your dog in order to establish communication and give it
    purpose, and make it tolerable.
  * Dogs need to be in a dominance hierarchy with everyone; if you
    are not above your dog, you will be below it.
  * Praise exuberantly.
  * Dominance over a dog is achieved with leadership, never
    harshness.

The very *best* of the recommended books are the Monks of New Skete books.


A.  What Kind of Dog?

1.  Factors to consider

There is an enormous variety of dogs in shape, size, personality, and
abilities.  Different breeds will have certain characteristics for
which they were bred.  Ask breeders at dog shows and look them up in
breed books for further information.  You must consider several things
before deciding on a dog:

 * What space can you provide it?  If you live in a small apartment,
   you must take this into consideration: larger breeds and active
   breeds will not do well unless you expend a good deal of effort in
   meeting their needs.  Larger dogs may also be more destructive in
   smaller spaces, even unintentionally with wagging tails.  Dogs can
   be pretty adaptable so long as *you* help them out.  Large dogs can
   do well in smaller areas if you make sure that its needs are met.

 * How much exercise can you give it?  If your time is limited, you
   should look for smaller or less active dogs that can obtain enough
   exercise in your home or from short walks.

 * How much training and time can you invest in it?  Regardless of the
   dog you get, training will make your dog much more compatible with
   you and what you want to do.  A trained dog can go to more places
   with you without disruption, and can be more easily a part of your
   life.

 * How much grooming can you do?  How much hair are you prepared to
   have in your home?  You should give serious consideration to these
   factors: some dogs shed little and require no grooming (clipping,
   stripping, etc); others shed little but require more grooming;
   others shed but do not require grooming; and still others both shed
   and require grooming.  Do note that just about all dogs will
   require some nail clipping regardless of conditions.

 * Which sex do you want, male or female?  There are pros and cons
   to either sex, all of which are generalities and may or may not
   apply to a specific dog.  By all means, if you have a preference,
   get the sex you want.  If you are not sure, it really doesn't
   matter -- look for the dog you hit it off with.

 * What characteristics do you want in a dog?  Different breeds have
   been bred with specific purposes in mind.  Dogs bred for scent, for
   racing, for retrieving, etc, will exhibit these regardless.
   Consider which characteristics you would like and which will annoy
   you.  Reading up on dogs in breed books (some are listed below) and
   talking to breeders will give you some idea of these kinds of
   characteristics.  This also may be a reason to choose a purebred:
   characteristics in purebreds appear more reliably because of their
   consistent breeding.  Do recognize, however, that dogs show
   individual personalities, and variety exists within each breed.
   Breeds are only a general indicator of what to expect.

 * Why are you getting the dog?  Its personality should complement
   yours and be suitable for the purpose for which you are getting it:
   pet, companion, or working dog.  Pets are dogs from which there are
   no expectations beyond "good behavior" (no jumping, etc) and
   friendship.  Companions are dogs that assist people or work closely
   with them (examples are Guide dogs, or dogs going through Obedience
   and other testing).  Working dogs are dogs whose primary purpose is
   to work (police dogs, search dogs, sled dogs, Guide dogs also
   qualify, but their work also involves intense companionship, so it
   overlaps).  Some dogs are fine as pets, others do much better as
   companions, and still others have levels of energy and
   determination best met by utilizing them as working dogs.

When selecting a breed ask about: propensity to bark, to dig,
protectiveness, trainability, activity level, adult size,
hard-headedness, suitability for less experienced owners.  Good dog
breed books can give you some idea; always ask any breeders you meet
what their opinion is for more input.

2.  Purebred or random-bred dogs

If you are interested in a purebred dog, you should pick up a book on
dog breeds (most libraries will have a good selection) and do some
research, with the above questions in mind.  There are some
breed-specific FAQ's listed in the Introduction.

If the dog's breed is not important to you, you should still consider
the above factors when choosing the dog.  You do face a few more
unknowns since a random-bred puppy (e.g., a "mutt") may or may not
clearly exhibit what its adult characteristics will be.